Originally Published the Week of Dec. 11, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
It’s pretty hard to escape Christmas if you live down here in Mexico. It sorta lands right on you when you definitely aren’t ready for it. This is especially true if you are used to other holiday traditions.
In the U.S. there’s no escaping “Black Friday” shopping. It used to be the big day AFTER Thanksgiving. Now, it starts well before that! Almost every day if Black Friday!
But, in Mexico…BAM! Right on your head.
Reminders of Christmas smack you about August! Just when it’s still over 100 degrees and humid outside. Right when you’re still running around in shorts and your flip-flops.
In Mexico, there is no Thanksgiving per se. And although the concept if Halloween is growing, it’s just a little bump on the calendar for a few hours one night.
In Mexico, the stores already have decorations in their displays. There are ribbons taped on merchandise and all kinds of “sales and discounts.”
In the parking lots of the big stores, giant circus tents have been erected. That’s where all the toys are stockpiled and folks are already shopping and putting things on layaway.
There’s a brisk sale on artificial Christmas trees, ornaments and lights. By mid-November, there are even some lots in the cities selling “Fresh Oregon Christmas trees!”
Honestly, if you wait until December, there’s a good chance you’ll be outta luck. Toys will have been picked over. Lights and ornaments long sold out. And they’re not gonna re-order.
You’ll find empty shelves.
Fortunately, there’s Amazon, but back in the day, you’d be stuck. Even with Amazon, you pay a premium price on things.
Additionally, delivery can still take longer than promised. Delays are not unusual depending on where you live.
That being said, if you’re coming down to visit during the holidays, you’ll probably run into many of the same things you would have seen back home.
…except snow! The only “snow” will be in your ice chest or margarita glass.
But that’s where you need to embrace the differences. Mexico adds a completely different magic and charm to the Christmastime ambience.
In the larger cities, wander downtown. Usually around the town square or plaza or the older historical parts of town there’s always something going on.
In December, local vendors will set up their booths about the beginning of December and every night during the holidays, they’ll be out there selling clothes, toys, hats, leather goods, shoes, belts pinatas, knick-knacks and more. Basically, a Christmas craft and street fair.
Plus there’s usually music from live bands or wandering musicians and ALWAYS lots of food vendors! The aroma of carne asada tacos, street corn and churros pulls you in like a tractor beam.
It’s really the place to be for families. Old friends visit and chat. Couples stroll and the young boys and girls try to impress each other…like anywhere else!
Don’t be surprised if Santa also makes an appearance!
Most of the larger cities also have colorful festive Christmas parades along the waterfront with some impressive floats and marching groups. Expect most of the city to show up to party.
If there’s a marina, you can bet there will also be a boat parade with vessels draped in creative lights and the whole waterfront will be lined with partygoers. If there are multi-storied restaurants along the waterfront, go early and get a good sea to watch!
Also, many of the churches host “posadas” which means “inn.” They commemorate Joseph and Mary looking for shelter during that first Christmas.
The events are elegant candlelight affairs and will usually feature a slow walking procession of celebrants, usually led by the priests, padres or monks followed by whomever wants to join in or carry a candle.
These usually take place in the older historic parts of the cities.
They often take on the air or solemnity but are actually often a joyous affair along the crowd-lined streets. Usually there is wonderful singing and musicians like guitar players who accompany the procession.
The posada usually starts or ends at the church, but it usually culminates with food! Food seems to be an underlying theme to all Christmas celebrations.
Another great excuse for Chrismas tamales, tacos, churros and warm champurrado which is the Mexican version of hot chocolate (real chocolate and cinnamon and thickened with flour). If not in a local restaurant, then at someone’s house or several houses.
Sometimes, it’s a rotating affair from restaurant to restaurant or house-to-hous.
Join the procession and you’ll be welcomed to the party!
Feliz Navidad!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
AHHHHH…THE DAYS WHEN WE COULD BRING ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING WE WANTED!
IT’s OK…UNTIL SOMEONE SAYS NO
Originally Published the Week of Nov. 22, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
Lately, there’s been more than a bit of anger on social media about Mexican customs “suddenly” clamping down on visitors bringing gear into the country.
Specifically, sporting equipment and, in particular fishing equipment has come under scrutiny.
For years, fishermen have been accustomed to bringing rods, reels and other fishing gear down to Mexico. I’m as guilty as anyone.
I remember trips where I had a huge bundle of at least a half-dozen sticks (rods) and 20 or 30 pounds of reels. That doesn’t even begin to include all the lures, lines and terminal tackle that also came along on the trip!
“I need my toys! I’m bringing it all!”
Fortunately, those days are mostly in my rearview mirror, but more incoming fishermen are getting stopped at the airport recently. Moreso, they have faced some hefty fines!
The surprise and outrage are understandable.
What a way to start your vacation!
You’re been looking forward to the trip forever. You gather and pack all your gear for travel.
Your plane lands and you’re ready to get through the airport as quickly as possible and get that vacation started! There’s a cold margarita and big fish waiting with your name on them!
Then, BAM!
You’re stopped at customs in the airport. An inspection of your gear results in a big fine.
You’re delayed. There are forms to fill out. And your credit card takes a hit to pay the fine.
Talk about a buzz kill!
You’ve never had a problem before. You have always brought gear. All you wanted. If you’re with fishing buddies, they also got hit.
You just don’t understand. It’s a WTF moment and under your breath (or maybe not) you’re uttering every expletive you can think of.
And that’s the rub!
This is NOTHING new! The searches may be new, but the rules are NOT!
None of us ever read the fine print on the customs forms! We never had to.
We didn’t need to read it. We pretty much brought what we wanted.
But, it’s right there in black and white on the customs form we all blindly sign.
I have to admit. In 30 years, I’ve never read the whole set of rules about what you can and cannot bring on your vacation.
It specifically allows us to bring no more than 4 rods.
It has always been there. It’s just that now the Mexican government is enforcing it (as they have every right to do).
Give the list a look. All kinds of things I didn’t know I couldn’t bring. There are rules about cameras, CD’s., tobacco products and more!
If you bring more or something not allowed you should bring paperwork like an invoice showing the value of the object. Otherwise, the inspectors will assign a value to the product and fine you accordingly.
Two years ago, I flew back to Mexico with a $2500 certified scale use to weigh big fish in tournaments and for world records.
It wasn’t new. I had brought it back to California to have it certified and repaired.
But, this one time, I forgot to bring the invoice for the repairs.
I got inspected and pulled into the customs office. I got hit with a $250 dollar fine and spent a good hour in the inspection office.
As much as I hated it, it was my fault for not bringing the paperwork like I usually do. The law is the law. I get it.
Although I am a resident of Mexico and own businesses in Mexico, I am still a guest and subject to Mexican laws.
My bad.
It’s like driving down the freeway where the speed limit is posted at 70 mph. You ALWAYS drive it at 79 mph and it seems like everyone else does as well.
Or this one…talking or texting on your cellphone while driving!
But…if a patrol car wants to stop and ticket you, it’s hard to argue.
So, what to do?
Obviously, narrow down your gear. That’s the easiest.
Also, bring some paperwork with you. If you got that new $600 reel at a discount $450 and don’t have the paperwork, inspectors will value your reel at $600.
The whole point is to prevent tourists from bringing gear down and selling it to locals and avoiding the import taxes. Like ALL governments everywhere, they want their pound of flesh.
I personally know guys who have brought gear to sell. Often.
These days, compared to decades ago, fewer anglers are bringing their own gear. It’s expensive to bring and unwieldy and cumberson to travel with it.
Most good outfits these days have fairly adequate to good gear.
But, if do decide to bring your own equipment, know the laws so you’re not surprised.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Oct. 2, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
We’ve come to that time of the year. It’s the winter months in Mexico.
Honestly, it’s a great time to visit and many folks mark it down on their calendars.
Even for those of us who live down here, it’s a “chilly” 72 degrees and we’re wearing long pants and sweatshirts. It still beats winter in cities like New York City, Seattle and states like North Dakota, Minnesota and Alaska.
Along with travel and lodging, folks also book activities.
There’s fishing, diving, kayak trips, booze cruises, etc. and many more opportunities to enhance the vacation.
That’s all well and good.
However, many visitors also forget that our Mexican weather can be erratic. Although the sun is out most of the time, it’s also the time when there can be big winds and waves.
As I often explain to folks, yes, we have a border between the two countries. However, it doesn’t mean that the weather stops at the border.
If there are huge storms or weather fronts that hit the U.S., chances are there is also a huge effect in Mexico to the south. We’re all part of the same continent.
Weather-wise, no country exists in a vacuum.
Over the many years, I’ve run into so many visitors who are surprised when the winds howl. They can’t believe how rough the ocean can get. Surely, it didn’t look like that in the travel brochure or the online webpage.
Here’s the rub.
What happens if that activity you reserved AND PAID FOR gets cancelled?
That’s the big one. You already paid for it or gave a big deposit for it. Now what?
Cancelations can come from different sources.
It could come from the weather.
It’s could be too rough or unsafe to get out on the water. Where we live in La Paz, the port captain will sometimes completely shut down the port to all boat traffic.
That means, diving, snorkeling, fishing, island tours, kayaking, etc. are grounded. Even private boats and yachts are locked in. Commercial boats are also stuck in the marinas.
Even if it may look calm inshore or in the bay, it could look like a washing machine outside the area. Safety is the big issues.
This can happen anywhere there is a Mexican port.
The other issue could simply be that it’s not economical for the tour operator to go out. For example a scuba diving trip might needs 8 divers to make it worthwhile. However, only 2 show up.
Or the sunset catamaran booze cruise needs 100 folks but only got 25 reservations. What happens to your money?
There’s a chance you won’t see it again. Straight-up.
If you were already on board and went out, but had to come back, that’s just the weather. No one’s fault.
You come back in. You’ll probably lose your funds. That was the chance you took.
If you never leave the docks or marina, there might be some recourse. But, not likely.
There are many reputable outfitters in Mexico. Some might offer a refund. Most won’t or can’t.
If the funds were already processed through a bank like a credit card, it’s difficult and problematically impractical to issue a refund.
Likewise, the tour operator might have already spent the money on gas, provisions, staff and other expenses. They were ready and willing to go except for unfortunate circumstances.
However, the operator honestly and regretfully simply doesn’t have funds to return to you. Very often, it can be a small-time mom-and-pop operation. They were depending on the trip as much as you were anticipating going!
What some operators might do is offer you a credit to come back. That’s great if you have the flexibility in your vacation schedule to give it a try on another day.
If you don’t have that alternative, you might just have to walk away and hope optimistically that you can use the credits.
However, here’s what some nefarious operators do.
They take the bookings. They accept the payments. They know full well that there’s a big chance the activity will never happen. Or is very unlikely to happen.
They will be happy to give you a future credit.
But, honestly, what are the chances you’re coming back anytime soon? This is the vacation you planned and saved for. Or it was the one-time visit all the way from northern Canada or it was part of a wedding party?
They know the large majority of visitors will not be able to come back. The money gets pocketed. Adios and safe travels home!
There are ways to help mitigate these things from happening.
One is to purchase trip insurance. It’s economical and covers things like bad weather, cancelled flights, getting sick (not hangovers!), etc . It can cover a myriad of unforeseen things that could happen on any vacation.
The other is to simply ask the outfitter what their refund policies are ahead of time. Better to be forewarned .
If it’s within say 7-10 days from your trip, ask them about the weather. Most good operators want to get you out as much as you want to go out. They might welcome your flexibility.
Maybe it would be better to change dates!
Also, get online and look at an extended forecast. Especially, check the wind forecast.
Also, whenever possible deal directly with the operators. There are many 3rd party booking agencies that take reservations online for outfitters.
They are largely anonymous corporate entities. Their job is to sell tickets because they get commissions from the tour operator.
You may never evern speak with a live person. It’s all about sales.
They don’t know anything about the weather or much else. Refund policies? Not likely or it simply is not worth the time and energy.
A little research and forethought could go a long way.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Oct. 1, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
Maybe it was just me.
Maybe I was just in a “mood.” Y’know…everyone gets in a “mood” every now and then.
Maybe it was just one of those days. Just another day.
It was late morning, but already sunny, hot, gritty and muggy.
I was with a number of hotel guests waiting to catch their shuttle tour bus to somewhere to do something. They looked like the type that would go zip-lining or ride camels or swim with the dolphins. The shuttle must have been late.
Didn’t really care. Not my wheelhouse. I just smiled. It’s what I do alot.
So, they were kinda milling out front of their hotel.
I just happened to be in the same spot within earshot. Plus, if people are gonna speak out loud in a public place, I can’t help but eavesdrop.
They weren’t my fishing clients. They were just regular normal hotel guests and tourists. On their way somewhere to do something. Chatting.
I couldn’t help but hear the conversations.
I heard one lady tell the group, “I can’t believe I saw a lizard on the wall in my room!”
Another said, “Well, I saw a roach run across a hallway the other night. It made me jump it was so big!”
Her husband chimed in, “I saw a cat at one of the restaurants and it had a mouse in it’s mouth!”
Ho-hum. I kinda chuckled to myself saying “So what?”
Like I said, I was kinda in a mood.
Well, complaints are kind of like a big yawn. One person yawns and it’s contagious and then more people yawn.
I don’t know why.
When someone complains, others seem to feel the need to bond and join in with their own complaints and experiences.
Another lady pipes up, “Y’know…I never imagined Baja would be SO hot and dusty!” She seemed a bit exasperated.
“Dust is to be expected because of all the potholes and dirt roads. You would think they’d fix all that and get things paved and make roads that held up to traffic,” chimes in one of the guys.
“I agree about the bad roads and dust, but I wish they would do SOMETHING about the bathroom fixtures.”
That got everyone to look at the lady for an explanation.
“The letter “C” on the bathroom faucets doesn’t mean “cold.” It means “Hot” in Spanish or something like that. Oh, I think the word is’ CALIENTE’.”
“How was I supposed to know that? I stood there waiting for cold water to brush my teeth and it never got cold.”
“As I figured out later, “F” means “frio” for cold water. But, it’s never really cold. It’s tepid. Not like home.”
“I even went down to the hotel reception to complain and they explained to me about the faucets. I told them they should fix that instead of confusing the hotel guests.”
Another added in, “We were at a hotel down the coast last year and we booked because it was described as a beachfront ‘rustic Mexico.’”
We had no idea that meant that after 9 p.m. they turned off the generator so there were no lights at the whole hotel. There weren’t even ice machines or TV’s.”
“I wanted a blended margarita at the little bar and they said they didn’t have a blender!
“Another guys spoke up, “Even if there were TV’s, all the channels are in Spanish. That’s crazy. There should be English channels. Why is everything in Spanish?”
“Menus are in Spanish. Signs are in Spanish! I mean, what do they expect?”
Lots of nods from the group and murmurs of assent.
Well, that one comment kinda got to me.
I was in a “ho-hum” mood to that point listening with amusement.
I thought to myself, “What do THEY expect?” Really? What do THEY expect?”
I really had to grit my teeth from joining the conversation.
Actually, the pertinent question is “What do YOU expect?”
Folks come down and seem to forget two really important things.
The first of which, this just happens to be MEXICO! It’s another country.
Like anywhere else, the country and it’s people have their own culture, customs, traditions, way of doing things and yes…(SURPRISE!)…even their own language!
Second, this is Baja. It’s called the “Frontera.” (The Frontier). It’s even on the license plates the same way some U.S. states have license plates that say “The Peach State” or “The Vacation Land State.”
The Baja is a 1000-mile-long finger of desert poking into the ocean. It’s bordered by the Pacific one side and the Sea of Cortez o the other.
It is vast. It’s rugged. It’s even primitive. It’s the outland and the badlands and it’s a beautiful land.
There are huge areas of unpopulated space despite some tourist cities that sprawl. Get outside the city limits and you’re pretty close to being on the surface of the moon.
For sure, there are many places that a human foot has never trod. You could actually die out there and no one would ever know. It can still be very very unforgiving to the unaware.
It’s the FRONTERA, Guey! (dude)
So, yea, the roads can be bumpy and uneven.
And sure, there’s a bit of dust in the air and yes, you’ll probably run into a bug or critter or two.
You’ll eventually figure out how to get a hot shower and you WILL survive your vacation WITHOUT television in English or a handy ice machine.
The phones might not work so quickly and folks might not even move that fast themselves, but it is what it is.
Sorry if everything is in Spanish too.
I DID hear one of them say, “If this is Mexico, how come they don’t speak Mexican instead of Spanish?”
That one made me grin.
Viva la Frontera! It’s changing daily and too rapidly for my taste, but I hope it stays the frontera for a bit longer. At least until I’m gone.
…or out’ve earshot!
Thankfully, they loaded on to their tour bus. On their way to somewhere to do something.
I didn’t much care. I was in one of those moods.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Sept. 4, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
Pay no attention to the men behind the mask!
It’s a hot muggy summer night under the bright lights of the outdoor arena. The heat from the lights and the tightly packed presence of the crowd just adds to the stickiness and grit.
With thunderous stomps on the canvas, the big-bellied-spandex-clad “EL DRAGON MYSTERIO” (Mystery Dragon), repeatedly pounded the writhing torso of his good-guy nemesis “DORADO” (The Golden One).
With each stomp, the crowd boo’d lustily standing and screaming and pumping fists in the air!
With each vicious stomp, the DRAGON looked up at the crowd and arrogantly pounded his chest defying the crowd with his dastardly prowess. Each merciless stomp eliciting even louder boos and screams!
The DORADO is defensively crumpled on the mat absorbing the pounding. He is defenseless prey to the relentless DRAGON who sneers with each thunderous heel-plant onto his opponent.
This is too much! The referee does nothing! The DORADO is helpless.
But, then a massive roaring cheer goes up!
It’s the masked DOMELEDOR (The Demolisher) suddenly leaping from the ropes and landing with a massive shoulder against the DRAGON!
The DRAGON folds from the hit and now the blue and yellow-clad DOMELEDOR delivers a muscled elbow to the DRAGON’s kidneys!
The crowd goes wild. They stomp their feet and scream and chant. They hate the DRAGON!
Now, the previously defeated DORADO leaps up and the DRAGON is now getting his!
The DORADO delivers a clubbed fist to the head of the DRAGON who spins back and now wobbles like a drunken sailor. But he gets another flying shoulder from the DOMELEDOR who uses the elastic ropes to launch himself like a human missile into the torso of the DRAGON.
The DRAGON reels and dramatically bounces off the ropes only to be double-kicked by both the DOMELEDOR and DORADO. It’s the famous DOUBLE- D move!
The crowd jumps, stomps and screams. The DRAGON crumples and the DORADO pins him to the mat with the DOMELEDOR standing triumphantly with his hand on one hip and a his ham-size fist in the air!
The referee calls a pin! The match is over and the crowd erupts with high-fives, fist bumps and massive cheers!
The seemingly exhausted victors parade around the ring while their defeated enemy staggers off the mat and back to the locker room to the jeers of everyone.
This isn’t WWE. This isn’t in a massive stadium or arena.
This is just local regional professional wrestling. It’s a converted tennis court filled with bleachers! It’s the famous “Lucha Libre (free fighting)” And no matter, the level, it’s as much a part of Mexican culture and tradition as mariachi music and tamales at Christmas.
From the legendary El Santo to modern-day stars, lucha libre has a long history of producing flamboyant larger-than-life figures, and this trio of wrestlers…the DOMELEDOR, DRAGON and DORADO. are carrying on that tradition with style, skill, athleticism and showmanship even at this city level.
…even with over-sized dad bodies. No steroids or rippling 6-pack stomach muscles or bulging biceps. Some wrestlers are simply “bulging” barely contained in the stretchy spandex.
But the enthusiasm is just as frantic.
Several other matches take place, but now, the three wrestlers mingle with the crowd.
Shaking hands. Taking selfies and mugging with fans. It’s all part of it. Especially the merchandising and the sales of t-shirts and masks is brisk.
The wrestlers aren’t paid much, but they often get a cut of the sale of swag so they skillfully work the crowd outside the ring with as much enthusiasm as they battled in the ring.
They are larger-than-life heroes and villains and cultivate the image, but never too large to take a selfie or hug a kid.
Later outside the small stadium, we walk to our parked car with our friends. What a fun evening!
Leaning up against our car is a big smiling figure of a man. It’s Alberto.
Shhhh….aka the DOMELEDOR!
Dressed in jeans, tennis shoes and a Nike t-shirt stretched over his big frame, he carries a small gym bag with his glittered spandex and mask and wrestling boots.
Other families walking to their cars pay no attention to the big man. Just another guy. They are still talking about the fun wrestling they just witnessed.
Alberto’s wife hugs him. She asks if he is OK. He towers over her with his barrel-sized body.
He says he’ll have a few bruises and might have a crick in his shoulder, but otherwise he’s OK and had fun. He picks up and hugs his young kids and tells them that they shouldn’t yell so loud at these matches.
While he was wrestling, he could hear them screaming, “Don’t hurt my daddy!” from their seats. He reminds them that that the identity of the DOMELEDOR is a secret.
He laughs and puts a meaty index finger to his lips in the universal sign to shush! They smile and promise.
We stop for some Cokes and ice cream.
Tomorrow, the DOMELEDOR goes back to his regular job as a carpenter.
Despite the fierceness of the ring, the man is the epitome of a gentle teddy bear. Affectionate, affable, this quiet guy wouldn’t hurt a fly. He’s a dad who has a unique side hustle in a stretchy outfit.
He tells me later they all get some basic training and do a little practice in the evenings but there really isn’t that much time for rehearsing.
They just try to make the stomps, punches and slaps as dramatic and noisy as possible…to “sell the move” to the crowd.
The louder the cheers and boos, the better.
The referee is actually part of the act and is like a director whispering to the wrestlers if they need to crank it up a notch or do a certain move.
They try not to hurt each other too much. All the performers are family guys with regular jobs. But, there are still bumps, bruises and sprains.
Sometimes, “rehearsal” is just the guys getting together and hashing things out over beers!
Sometimes he’s a bad guy, but mostly he gets to be a good guy.
But dings to the body are part of wrestling and you have to love it or find some other way to have a side-income.
With t-shirt and mask sales, he might pull in $200 dollars for an evening. A lot of money in Mexico.
Alberto has been the DOMELEDOR for 8 years now . But he knows his time is waning. It takes longer for the bruises to heal and things are starting to hurt just a little more.
And when he steps away for the final time, someone new will don the mask and be the DOMELEDOR. The image and character continue.
In fact, the company that hires him and produces these matches has other “DOMELEDOR” characters in other cities with the same mask and outfit.
And the crowds will continue to cheer.
Alberto laughs and says he need a hot shower. Turn out the lights. The DOMELEDOR dad, wants to call it a night.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published the Week of Aug. 24, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
Undoubtedly, after 30 years down here, this has got to be one of the hottest summers I can remember. Everyone is remarking about it.
It’s not just hot. It’s sticky with heavy air that just clings to you. The other morning when I was putting out our fishing boats at 4:30 in the morning, the humidity was a whopping 84%!
Fortunately, at least we have the ocean right out front and everyone seems to be taking advantage of it’s cooling proximity although water temps are also warm…in the 80’s!
At our Tailhunter Restaurant one of our guests from the U.S. sat at a table and asked for a recommendation off our menu.
The conversation was basically, what to eat? It’s too hot to eat hot food. It’s too hot to eat heavy food. But, they still wanted “authentic Mexican food.”
I happened to look over at a neighboring table of local La Paz friends and I realized they had ordered the perfect hot weather dish. And it also hit me why it’s such a popular summertime plate.
CEVICHE checks so many boxesQ
To many, their initial reaction is, “But, I don’t eat raw fish”
Well…to be accurate, it’s not technically “raw.” It’s actually “cooked” but not from a heat source.
Basically, it’s chunks of fish, often white meat fish, that has been marinated in citrus juice. Usually that entails zesty Mexican lime juice or in some cases, I’ve seen a bit of fresh orange juice added in as well.
The acid in the citrus actually “cooks” the fish firming it up and imparting a wonderfully delicate and tangy flavor.
That’s basically all it is.
It starts with either chunked or shredded fish that is often white like dorado, seabass, snapper, yellowtail which are all very popular choices, but it could also be darker flesh like tuna.
(Even freshwater fish can be used. I’ve had striped bass ceviche and in Hawaii, we have a dish called “Lomi Salmon”.)
Chop up some tomatoes, a little cilantro, minced onions and maybe a few minced chilis or jalapenos. Toss that in. Mix it up and squeeze in enough lime juice to coat everything.
A little salt, pepper, garlic powder to taste. Some folks add a sprinkle of chili powder for more zing!
Put it in the frig for 20-30 minutes to chill it up and serve with saltines crackers or fried tortilla chips and a drop of your favorite salsa you’ve got the most refreshing summer meal to beat the heat.
It is easily one of the most popular dishes in Mexico.
They sell it in restaurants, markets and even roadside stands and out’ve the back of pick-up trucks from ice chests!
And the thing is that there are so many variations!
Ceviches have been around a long time. It is totally Old World cuisine. There is evidence that it originated in Peru over 2000 years ago and ceviche is actually the Peruvian national dish!
Over the years, it migrated up and down Latina America and it’s a bit like spaghetti sauce. Everyone makes it a little different!
All of them are good, but the ingredients and styles make for some incredible flavors and textures.
Some areas use larger chunks of fish. Some areas shred their fish. One very tasty variation uses shrimp instead!
I have had bits of scallops and even octopus mixed in and served in a martini glass at a really swanky party one time.
Another time, as an hors d’oeurvre served on sliced cucumbers with a thinly sliced toasted jalapeno on top and a drop of Siracha sauce.
It was outstanding, but, I’m fine with it in a paper cup!
I have had ceviche with minced avocados that add a bit of creaminess to the mix. I have had a “Vera Cruz” style that had bits of mango and a bit of shredded fresh coconut in it.
I have even had one that was obviously Asian-influenced that had a bit of kimchee (spicy marinated cabbage) and a hint of soy sauce in it like a ponzu sauce!
Honestly, gringos eat it with the tortilla chips. Locals eat it with the saltine crackers. There’s no bad way. Stick a fork in it!
Like I said, it checks a lot of the boxes.
It’s chilled and refreshing. Perfect for hot weather.
It can be kept in the frig and will be even more tasty the next day as the juices and spices marinate.
It’s great on a picnic or to the beach. Out on a boat it’s a treat as well.
I’ve brought a ziplock style bag with all the veggies and seasonings already in it.
When I catch a suitable fish, I do a quick fillet and chop it up. Then toss it into the bag and into the ice chest to “cure.” Half-an-hour later, we’re eating!
Roll some up in a warm tortilla!
It’s low calorie. Hi protein. Good for weight loss if that’s your aim.
Since ceviche contains primarily raw ingredients, it is packed with essential vitamins and minerals found in seafood, such as iron, zinc, omega-3 fatty acids, and Vitamin E and B12.
To me, it’s just refreshingly good tasting.
…with an icy cold beer on a hot summer Mexican afternoon!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published in June of 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
Probably the biggest question I get her from our fishing guests who visit us next to “How’s the fishing right now?” is “How much should I tip?”
It’s a good and valid question.
Just to get it outta the way, my wife and I are big tippers. We’re in the service industry and we know how hard service people work. It might make you cringe, but we tip regularly 20-30%.
Especially here in Mexico.
It might look like your waiter or taxi driver or boat captain is doing OK for themselves. Clean car. Or a great boat. Or an immaculate uniform.
But, look around as you drive through town. Check out what it’s like away from the tourist areas.
Yea, that’s where these folks live. Not like in the U.S.
There might be a whole family of 6 living in that 2 BR flat. And only one of them works. No TV, car, microwave, etc. Things we kinda take for granted.
That taxi driver you used…you you might be his only fare for the day despite what it looks like.
That boat captain…it’s not his boat. He pays the owner of the business or owner of the boat, 80% of what you paid to go fishing.
So that extra few dollars might be pretty big to that person.
And here’s something few folks know.
You got your tab for a great meal. Service was good. Ambience and food were excellent. Waiter was super.
You want to use your credit card. No problem.
But, as if often the case, they request the tip money in cash. So it’s always a good reason to bring cash with you for your night out. Especially at the nicer places.
But, why cash?
And your waiter was great. Is 20% enough? You gave him 25% and while he was appreciative his attitude seemed a little less appreciative than you might expect.
We own a restaurant here in La Paz.
Here’s what’s going on.
The reason they request cash is because at the end of the shift, the staff including the wait staff, busboys, hostess, cashier, kitchen staff, cooks…THEY SPLIT THE TIPS!
So, your super waiter just got $50 in tips? He doesn’t get to pocket it all. He has to put it into the common tip jar for the staff.
It goes right in there with the $10 tip for the lousy waiter who is a slouch and isn’t nearly as competent as your guy or, in some cases, couldn’t care less about good service. It’s just a job.
So, here’s what happens at the end of the shift…the “kitty” gets split up before they all go home.
And here’s the rub. Shhhhh…it’s all a secret.
Y’see as owners of a restaurant, we can’t ask about the tips. We can’t ask how much each person gets. We have no idea.
The employees elect some one as their “trusted” head guy. Usually an older guy or someone who has some seniority.
We can’t ask who he is!
They have something agreed upon where each person gets a pre-agreed portion. But, it doesn’t have to be logical or even fair.
Three cooks might get completely different shares. The great waiter you had might get a smaller share than the terrible waiter.
And they are counting on the head guy and trusting him to do the right thing with the money. There’s nothing to stop that person from pocketing a “little extra” as we have sometimes found out later.
Remember, we’re not allowed to ask or interfere with how tips are distributed.
In many ways it’s very socialistic. “From each according to their abilities. To each according to their needs.”
So, on the backside, it doesn’t reward excellence. It does not motivate anyone to be better or do better. So, that might explain why you got beans instead of French fries or your salad got served after your main meal.
You just never know. So, we still tip generously for good service. For sure, that waiter will at least remember us next time. Everyone will remember! It’s just good form.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published in Western Outdoor Publications the Week of July 12, 2025
No question about it. Baja is booming. There isn’t a week that goes by that someone doesn’t ask me about real estate or a real estate agent.
Or they arrive at our restaurant and during conversation they tell me they are looking for real estate or have already purchased their house, condo or lot.
It’s probably a bit like where you live. You remember bare land and empty hills that are now blanketed with development.
In our case, the magic word is “beachfront” or “ocean-view.”
I don’t know many folks who come here to buy a piece of “dusty desert.” You can do that in plenty of places in the U.S.
Nope. I get it, everyone wants that dream home or vacation spot. It’s an attractive proposition.
I mean, relatively speaking, purchasing down here with a view or great location is expensive (in my small brain). Easily approaching or over that 7 -figure price tag.
But, unless you’ve got really deep pockets, there’s no way you could touch this kind of real estate in the U.S. where 1 bedroom condos fetch those same 7-figures. OUCH.
So, let’s buy in Baja!
From where I’m sitting right now in my office, I look around and see lots of very expensive custom houses surrounding the nearby hills.
The local colonial houses are all being snapped up as well and being “remodeled” and updated by new owners as well. There’s a huge ridge of condos behind us now and new construction can be seen everywhere.
Baja is a good place to set up.
There’s just one catch. And it’s a big one. It’s in the fine print somewhere. I’m sure of it.
Even if it isn’t, there’s that saying “Ignorance of the law is no excuse.”
A few years ago, a bunch of homeowners who owned some pricey villas on a local bay, put up a dirt berm to block the ingress to the beach in front of their homes. A 3-foot high dirt wall blocking the road.
It surely prevented folks from driving over to water’s edge.
That included anyone who didn’t own one of the beach castles there in the enclave.
Well, it also prevented dozens of panga captains from getting to and from their fishing boats. This was a spot they had been using for generations. It’s how they made their living either as commercial fishermen or taking clients sportfishing.
Several local pueblo villages and their resident families depended on the use of this beach. Like several hundred people.
Well, the homeowners manned the barricades and railed against the locals that “WE OWN THE BEACH.” And “destroying their view from their homes” and “no privacy” Blah blah blah.
It got pretty tense. Folks living off the sea pretty much hand-to-mouth rallying against indignant entitled obnoxious rich gringos feeling under siege in their beach castles.
The homeowners weren’t backing down.
So, in comes the cavalry. And it wasn’t to rescue the beleaguered homeowners.
The government sent in a bulldozer to knock down the barriers. Problem solved.
Let’s get back to work. The kids need food!
Stuff like this happens more often than you might think.
Here’s the thing. You are welcome to build that dream house or move into that beach villa. But you do NOT and CANNOT own the beach.
The beach lawfully belongs to the people. You are not entitled to block access or chase people off “your” beach, Karen!
You are not entitled to build barriers, berms, walls or fences that block the right to enter the beach.
Certain activities might get waivers for example a water-front restaurant, but that still does not allow the business owners to stop whoever wants access to the beach and water.
It might mean you’re gonna get folks messing up your gorgeous view or loud music you’d rather now hear. Or people splashing in your ocean and more trash than you want.
Or not.
But it could happen. Pick your spots carefully.
Understandable.
The reality is that the beach belongs to you, but not exclusively to you. You have to share and play nice with everyone.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of June 20, 2025
We come across a lot of folks down here while doing business with our fishing fleet and restaurant here in La Paz. With some 30 years, we’ve had up to 1000 clients in a single season. That doesn’t include our restaurant.
Over that time, we sure have met a lot of wonderful, interesting, superlative folks. Many have become good friends over the years and even generations into several generations of some families.
But, like any business that comes in contact with the public, you cannot help but develop generalizations and stereotypes about folks. It doesn’t matter if you’re a shopkeeper, taxi driver or Fortune 500 CEO.
You start to form a mental visualization based on the way people talk on the phone. The way they write their e-mails. Their formal signature on their correspondence. How they dress or look or speak when they finally show up down here.
Making assumptions, as you may well know, can be fun. It can be entertaining. It can also be awkward or even perilous in the right context.
For instance, there’s a popular tiki bar on the beach at one of the hotels we work with. Some guys were drinking at the bar just having normal conversation with each other. I could tell 2 were English. Two were Americans.
Another patron started acting up. Obviously drunk and acting king of the hill and bullet proof. He was bothering everyone.
One of the guys at the bar politely asked him if he would tone it down.
Instead the drunk guy went off. Started pushing the the guy who had asked him to be quiet. In fact, started cussing out all 4 of them.
He took a swing and that was the last thing he probably remembered.
Never saw the nice guy move so fast. One move. Put the drunk guy down. Flat on his face out. The other patrons gasped.
The other guy sat down with his buddies and just kept drinking their beers and laughing. No big thing.
Found out later, the two Americans were Army rangers. The two Brits were SAS special forces including the one guy that laid out the drunk.
Another example…I had a big group of Chinese guests. Some were from California. A number were friends from Hong Kong/ Taiwan.
One of them was incredibly good looking. Tall. Perfect features. Very fit. I was told he was a famous movie star and singer back in his country. He had THOSE kind of good looks. A charmer also.
His brother…not so good looking. Short, squat, curly hair. Weird Asian mustache. But funny as heck. Great personality.
We would go walking down the street with the group and people would stop us and wanted to take photos with the shorter brother. Found out later he was a famous porn star in China!
Never would have guessed. He must have had a lot more going for him than a great personality!
I met another guy who used to be a Chip ‘N’ Dales dancer. (40 years before I met him!). He saved up his money and started a chain of express car lube places and cashed out a millionaire.
On another occasion there was a really unassuming guy at our bar. Just a nice guy.
We started talking music. I told him that I play guitar in our house band in our restaurant. He said he played a little too.
I said, wow…if you want to come jam with us, he was welcome. I asked if he had played in bars or backyards before like me. He said, “No, I drum for this group called “The Doobie Brothers.”
Uh yea…duh! He later invited us to LA to watch them record! And I did take him fishing!
Speaking of music, we had a big crowd in our bar one night with the band playing on the top floor and people dancing. One of our waiters said there was a guy on the 2nd floor who had a trumpet.
I walked over to him and told him if he wanted to jump in with the band, he was welcome.
“Are you sure it’s OK,?” he asked. No problem, man. Go for it.
Well, over the next hour he had our whole place jumping. He was great! He had the upstairs and downstairs all hopping and dancing.
During a break he came back to his seat.
I gushed and told him how great he was and offered to pay for his dinner and drinks. I told him that with his awesome talent, he could walk into any bar in La Paz and always get free food and drinks.
He laughed and said, “Thank you. You really think I’m good?”
HECK YA MISTER!
He played one more set with the band then he just disappeared. Walked out. Never saw him leave. He just kinda snuck out from the crowd!
I was really disappointed, but one of our waiters said he left his card.
I took his card which only had his name and a phone number. I went on social media hoping to maybe find this guy and thank him.
Well…yea I found him. Duh…
He was a famous stage and sessions musician and had played with people like the Rolling Stones, Muscle Shoals, Billy Preston and a bunch of others and had 3 grammy awards!
I’m the one who got played for sure. Yes, he was “good enough!”
Just this week, we had a first-timer from Texas come fishing with us.
The day before he arrived, he sent me an e-mail. It was all in capital letters! Almost like shouting. It was about his food .
He said for his breakfast and lunches on the boats, absolutely “NO MEAT THAT HAD FEATHERS ON IT. NO TURKEY. NO CHICKEN. PLUS NO MAYO OR MUSTARD. COMPLETELY DRY FOOD!”
Well, that caused us to roll our eyes a bit.
We get specialty food requests often. No gluten. No nuts. Only eggs. No onions. Eggs, but no chicken. Kosher. Etc. etc.
This guy was MORE THAN adamant.
I had never met him until he showed up. Was he allergic? Was he on a fad diet? Was he just picky?
Well, he turned out to be a good old southern boy. Genuine nice guy. My initial impression was that he was just a picky fussy eater.
So, I asked him about it. He quietly told me…
“I grew up in rural Alabama. We had no electricity. We had no running water. We had to hand pump for our water. I never had a pair of shoes until I was in 1st grade.”
We had chickens. Lots of them. Our outhouse was in the chicken yard.
Every time…day or night…when I had to go to the outhouse, I had to walk barefooted through all that years of chicken crap. In my toes and stuck to my feet.”
“I swore I would never eat anything again for as long as I lived with feathers.”
That put a whole different spin on things. Mad respect for this gentleman.
You just can never tell about folks. There’s a story behind every first impression.
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter Sportfishing Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter.com . They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
IS WILLY INVITING ME TO PLAY OR INVITING ME TO “DINNER?”
IS WILLY OK WITH THIS?
Originally Published the Week of June 15, 2025 in Western Outdoor Publications
Down here in La Paz where we’ve run our fishing operation for some 30 years now. There’s a fishing area that’s really popular. And it can have some spectacular fishing.
It’s the area between Punta Arenas and Cerralvo Island. It’s known for big fish…lots of fish…specifically at times of the year it’s famous for roosterfish.
Back-in-the-day, there would be us and maybe another fleet or three or four. At most, maybe 10 pangas fishing the whole area.
It often felt like the whole Sea of Cortez was yours.
Over the years, it has grown tremendously in popularity.
Especially during this time of year, there can be dozens of pangas on the water. Everyone still does well, but sigh…it does make one long for the “good old days.”
There’s room on the ocean for everyone, I guess.
The only ones we’ve really come to hate is when Mexican or Asian commercial fishing vessels have intruded into the area and “harvested.”
One wrap…two wraps of giant nets and the ocean goes empty. Laying long lines across the ocean and so many indiscriminate species are killed.
Well, that subject is for another article and another day.
Lately, when out on the water, we’ve noticed helicopters buzzing the fishing grounds. That kinda sends shivers because the commercial big boys use choppers to spot the schools of fish.
Everyone goes on alert. Hackles are up.
But, as we’ve come to find out, these choppers aren’t looking for schools of fish. At least not in the traditional senses.
We’ve noticed a lot of strange pangas and boats chasing around and following the choppers too. They’re full of tourists not fishermen!
We’ve seen 6, 8…a dozen pangas running helter-skelter all over under the choppers.
What’s going on?
Well…here’s the latest…
The boats are full of folks wanting to swim with orcas. Yup…that’s right Killer Whales. Willy and friends!
The biggest smartest apex predator in the ocean. Great white sharks? C’mon…killer whales eat them for breakfast! Funny dolphins? They look so cute in the ocean!
I was on a fishing boat once. I saw an orca toss a dolphin up out’ve the water. In mid-air it caught the spinning dolphin and crunched it in a huge spray of blood.
Uh…we moved our boat. No fish gonna be around after that!
I’ve seen killer whales toss sealions in the air like nerf balls!
So, all these companies are now selling “Swim with the Orcas” trips!
Yes, you too can jump in the water with these giants! Get in on it. Amaze your friends!
You’ll get lots of “clicks” on your youtube post and a zillion “likes” on your Facebook page. Or course, Willy will be happy to take a selfie with you!
I think some of these folks are the same folks who walk up to buffalo in Yellowstone Park or grizzly bears and take selfies or try to pet them.
Let’s think about this for a moment.
I’m a trained SCUBA divemaster. I grew up in Hawaii. In the water and above the water. I’ve worked as a scuba and snorkel guide. I’ve got thousands of water hours.
I’ve swam with schools of hammerheads and other sharks. I’ve dove with giant squid. Many times, I’ve played with whalesharks and dolphin. I kinda know my way around the water.
But, hey…these are called “KILLER WHALES!” Has everyone forgotten?
Joe and Martha from Kansas have not spent much time in the ocean.
I have been around killer whales.
I’ve had them swim around our boats. I’ve had them “playfully” bump our boats. It kinda looks like they are grinning at you. Then they open their mouths and show you all those teeth.
And yes, I’ve been to Sea World and other water theme parks and watch them do tricks .
I have never ever seen one act with malicious intent towards people.
The events I mentioned above with dolphin and sealions? That’s just orcas doing what orcas do.
These are wild animals. These are wild animals in their own environment.
And unlike sharks and other predators, I have no doubt these are smart intelligent animals. They think.
Even if they are “playing” this is a 25-foot animal that can weigh up to 6 tons. They can swim in 40 mph bursts. Faster than a shark. Faster than a dolphin.
Ever been hit by a truck going 40 mph? Ever had one fall on you?
Many years ago, in Bahia Magdalena, they allowed divers to scuba dive with the “gentle” gray whales in the shallow bay. One of the whales wanted to have some fun.
It “gently” tossed one diver into the air. Caught him on it’s nose then drove him some 30’ into the bottom! No malicious intent.
Just doing what whales do! Almost killed the guy. Just an accident of course.
Scuba with the gray whales has since been prohibited.
I keep thinking what happens when one of these orcas decides to get frisky and playful? Or worse yet…what if Willy gets irritated about being chased all over the ocean by pesky helicopters and boats full of people?
How would YOU react?
There are currently no rules or regulations about swimming with orcas. And many outfitters are seeing the potential to cash-in on the cash cow.
No training needed. No guide needed. No regulations. I heard it’s $3000 to rent a panga to chase the orcas. Snorkel and mask? Sure, jump in!
All it’s gonna take is one accident.
Personally, I’m gonna stay in the boat this round. I’ll go swim with the sharks!
That’s my story!
Jonathan
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Jonathan Roldan has been writing the Baja Column in Western Outdoor News since 2004. Along with his wife and fishing buddy, Jilly, they own and run the Tailhunter International Fishing Fleet in La Paz, Baja, Mexico www.tailhunter-international.com. They also run their Tailhunter Restaurant Bar on the famous La Paz malecon waterfront. If you’d like to contact him directly, his e-mail is: jonathan@tailhunter.com
Or drop by the restaurant to say hi. It’s right on the La Paz waterfront!
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That's My Story 